GAMME ON

Despite the aesthetic vearing dangerously close to Italian Fascist (a Mussolini wet dream), Moncler Bleu SS/10 show is a second victory for Creative Director Thom Browne and Remo Ruffini.

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FRED TIMES TWO

A Wimbledon pandemic is looming large in London, and UK's finest sports herritage brand, Fred Perry, has two irons in the fire. The first is its much publised sponsorship of Andy Murray, the 22 year old (I know, he looks almost 30. So fit and yet so aged, non?) shouldering the burden of England's sporting hopes and dreams. This performance range is strickly for courtside, but a handsome collection.

We also have the brand’s 3rd collaboration with Raf Simon. The A/W 09 range features bold African colours: a welcome relief from the all-black collection. Again the focus is on the laural leaf logo, but there is a sense of fun with some saucy mesh vests, as well as some very nice moccasins (below). Yes please.

MY TIE

I spent today on the London High Street, obstensibly to look at the new Mathew Williamson collection for H&M. As far as H&M collaborations go (anyone who saw the rubbishy Victor & Rolf offering will know what I mean) , the men's offering is pretty strong, although the prints are a little whacked.

The cut of the blazers are great, and the fabrication fairly high standard. It falls down on the knitware and the t-shirting, but all in all, good work Mathew.

Instead, I purchased this tie from Uniqlo (above). Far too much of my current wardrobe is from Uniqlo, but what can I say: it is classic with a preppy edge, high quality (the stuff lasts) and affordable. The rainbow completed my day.

BOYS CLUB

Australia did need something like Academy For Men - a men's style publication attempting to push creative boundaries. The mission statement is completely grandiose: 'With strong leadership we will enable our readers to look beyond what they think is possible and achieve the unimagionable'. I mean, this is an online fashion magazine, not the fucking New Testiment. But, the photography is strong, and editor Rhys Ripper (if that is your real name) has greatly improved Issue 2 from Issue 1 - the kid shows promise. Also, its free, so lets all subscribe and acheive unimagionable.

WHOLESALE HOMOEROTICA

I've always been astounded at how Abercrombie & Fitch have built a successful business by selling hardcore homoerotica to small town America. The hyper-sexualised Bel Ami billboards, the dim interior lighting and cruisy atmosphere, the buff, shirtless models at the entrance, the wholesome vintage soft porn frescos of collegiate boys rowing and playing rugby.


This billboard got me blogging after nearly a year. This scaffolding disguiser means shopper must actually walk into the male model's crotch. Literally entering a small hole in his jeans, and going direct for the genitals. Surely red-blooded American boys have got to realize what they are doing.

THIN EDGE OF THE WEDGE

Louise the XVI was a man who understood the direct relationship between fashion and power. Images of the Sun King (above) show immaculate sartorial detail, from his coiffured head to his healed feet.

The Fendi wedge (below), seen at Milan Fashion Week recently, has grabbed a lot of attention in the mainstream media. It seems at every Men’s Fashion Week female journalists will pick out something outrageously unwearable and effeminate as a talking point. I don’t think Silva Fendi’s platform wedge warrants this status this year. Actually, the shoe is reasonably wearable, and I would argue that it isn’t effeminate – no more than a Cuban heel on cowboy boot, or the healed shoes worn by President Sarkozy.

And the benefits of the heel, that extra inch, and the flattering shape on the male leg, was something that clearly Lousie the XVI – as evidenced by this flirty pose - understood entirely

STYLE ICON: PRINCE MICHAEL OF KENT

GQ is not a publication you would describe as being on the pulse (yes, Dylan, I’m looking for a humidor for my cigar collection and like to see the 10 best on the market). It doesn’t bring up anything new, but occasionally you are reminded of something old and brilliant. In this month’s Best Dress List, it was the sartorial splendour of Prince Michael of Kent (this year he made 34). The Queen’s first cousin, a decendent of and dead ringer for the last Tsar of Russia, Prince Michael has been doning the same splendid double breasted suits in shades and blue and grey since time began. He has a style entirely icon style, and we applaud.